A broadband concept receiver that will amaze you
designed by sv3ora

An overview of the receiver along with a pills holder to store the various resonators

A concept circuit is definitely not a common thing among homebrewers. Most of the builders, usually build more classic circuits that satisfy their needs without experimenting further. Eventually someone comes up with an unusual idea that is worth it to try. When this idea works, it becomes a building block in our next homebrew gear. The receiver presented in this article is such a concept circuit, as it allows for broadband single signal (USB) reception, but at the same time avoiding the extra complexity needed by circuits with similar features.

Here is the reflexed regenerative receiver front end that is simplicity itself, yet capable of remarkably good performance, better than any simple receiver I have built so far. The highly sensitive, single signal capable, all-bands receiver, can be easily built in a few afternoons, and it is capable of receiving any frequency on HF (1-30MHz) by just replacing the crystal for that frequency. No other components need replacing or rescaling apart from the crystal itself.

The receiver can work on crystals, ceramic resonators (2-legs) or ceramic filters (3-legs). The oscillator works with L/C combinations too (in place of the crystal) but this is something I have not fully optimized yet. If ceramic filters are used, you can ground their center pin, or you may leave it unconnected. Note that crystals can achieve single signal reception at all bands in this circuit but the sensitivity gets lower (depended on the crystal properties) than when using ceramic resonators. Single signal reception using ceramic resonators, has been tested up to about 17m successfully but on higher bands I did not have any ceramic resonators to test this. With crystals, it works to 10m ok. Note, that some ceramic resonators I had, refused to oscillate but most of my other ones did, so do not get dissapointed if the receiver does not work at first time, just try another ceramic resonator. With crystals there is no such problem, but if you find the sensitivity a bit low with crystals, you can try decreasing the 10k fixed resistor at the JFET source.

 

The receiver front-end

9v 10k
LOG
9v

100nF
100R
100k 4.7pF NP0
4.7k
100nF
J108
220k MV209 470k
150pF
NP0
2SC
9018

3.3mH

100k
LIN

47pF
  

SW1b

SW1a

10k
10k
LOG
 

100nF

3.3mH
AFout
 

The receiver front-end, suitable for direct connection to the PC microphone input or high impedance headphones.


To come up with a circuit with so low components count and good performance, one must think cleverly. Both stages of the receiver, are used in more than one ways. The 2sc9018 is an untuned wideband RF preamplifier with RF gain control and an audio preamplifier at the same time. The J108 is a self oscillating regenerative detector.


The front panel of the receiver

The receiver works the following way. RF signals come in from the antenna to the 2sc9018 RF preamplifier, where they amplified and passed to the 4.7pF and 100nF capacitors. The small portion of the RF signal that passes through the 4.7pF capacitor (small capacitance so as not to affect the tuning range, for isolation of the oscillator from the RF preamplifier and also for small loading of the oscillator tank circuit), passes through the crystal to the self-oscillating regenerative detector J108. This self oscillating mixer, mixes it's own-generated signal with the incomming RF input signal and produces audio (apart from other frequencies). The amount of regeneration is adjusted by the 100k potentiometer. The regeneration potentiometer also acts as a frequency fine tune. Especially if ceramic resonators are used, zero beating of an SSB signal might be tricky with just the frequency adjust potentiomerer (an expensive multi-turn potentiometer is not used), so fine tuning at a small amount, is performed by adjusting the regeneration potentiometer. The amount of frequency pulling from the regeneration potentiometer is small but adequate for zero beating. The output signal (RF and detected AF) out of this stage, passes through the 10k isolation resistor, the 100nF DC-blocking capacitor and the 3.3mH RF filter choke, to the 2sc9018 transistor once again (when reflexion is switched on), where it is re-amplified. Only the AF signal is amplified, because RF is blocked by the choke at the base of the transistor. This choke serves also to block RF from the antenna to pass to the regenerative detector. The amplified AF signal is then passed to the 4.7pF and 100nF capacitors and the other 3.3mH choke. The 4.7pF capacitor and the crystal after it, do not allow audio to pass through it back to the J108, so most of the amplified audio is passed through the 100nF capacitor and the series choke, to the output of the receiver. The 100nF capacitor, also passes amplified RF signals from the antenna and the 2sc9018, so the choke is used in series with it, to block RF from passing to the audio output of the receiver. If you connect high impedance headphones to the receiver or if you build the active AF filter shown later on in this article, you may remove this extra choke, as the headphones cannot respond to RF anyway and the filter will filter RF. The values of both chokes are not critical and you can use any values (even different values for both) as long as they are in the low mH range. I used two cheap molded 10mH chokes I had available. Using a separate stage as an RF (and AF) preamplifier ensures isolation of the antenna from the self-oscillating detector. There is no LO leakage to the antenna and no detector detuning.

The output of the receiver, can be connected directly to high impedance headphones (volume is more than adequate when a big antenna is used and when reflexion is switched on) or it can be connected to the microphone input of a PC. There are numerous of programs that can then be used to further manipulate the audio signals, filter them and decode them to meaningful data, so the receiver does not need to be any more complex than that. However, you will need a good processor and sound card if you want to minimize latency due to the CPU-demanding DSP processing.

I have built this circuit numerous of times and it always work. I have built different variations, with variable capacitors, varicaps, multi-turn potentiometers or even LDRs. It always worked as expected. Note however, that when the reflexion is switched on and under the prescence of strong out of band broadcast signals, the B-E junction of the 2sc9018 is working as an AM detector! Effectively it is a diode across the antenna input and it couples directly to the AF output without any filtering at all. I am affraid, this is the price you have to pay when reflexing such a simple circuit. Bear in mind that the circuit has no RF front end tuned circuits so it is as wide band as it's possible to be. The good news, is that the detected AM signals, do not appear at all times, but only when an external untuned antenna receives very strong broadcast stations and when the RF gain is set to maximum. On tuned or small antennas, the problem should not be noticed. These detected AM signals, usually appear at quite low levels at the AF output in comparison to the wanted regenerated signals and they are mostly noticeable when they are of high levels and when the regenerative detector is not oscillating or when there are no HAM band signals tuned in. Practically, they pose no significant problem in weak HAM signal reception. Think of the sensitivity of a crystal set, with a silicon diode instead of a germanium one and you will get an idea of what I mean. No to mention, that if AF filtering is used after the receiver (be it hardware or FFT) the AF bandwidth of these 6KHz or so signals, is decreased at 2.5KHz or whatever your filter bandwidth is. On narrow band audio filtering (digital modes) these AM signals dissapear due to the narrow bandwidth and their low level. Either wideband or narowband, the RF gain control can help in reducing these interfering AM signals (but also the wanted ones).

How about single signal reception? This is a feature that only complex receivers have. However, despite it's simplicity, my receiver is capable of single signal reception. The regeneration can be set so fine, that you can adjust it to be effective on one sideband and not effective on the other. To understand this better, suppose you receive a DSB signal (both sidebands tone modulated). By careful adjustment of the regeneration, you will receive a tone on the USB and just a hiss on the LSB. The hiss will be like listening to an SSB modulated signal on an AM receiver. Not only that, but the received hiss on the LSB will be much attenuated, as a result of the lack of regeneration effectiveness on that sideband.

I tested this feature using crystals and ceramic resonators and I did achieve single signal reception on all HF bands using crystals and up to about 17m using ceramic resonators. I did not have any ceramic resonators above 17m, but I suspect it will work too. I do not think single signal reception has to do with anything related to crystal filtering of the incoming RF signal. It was only when I set the regeneration carefully, near the point of oscillation (at each frequency setting) that the opposite sideband (LSB) was rejected. It is actually not rejected, but it is attenuated and the detector is not effective in beating this sideband (attenuated AM detection only in this sideband). I verified it by setting the regeneration a bit higher and now the opposite sideband was beated (it's lower frequencies). When I set the regeneration even higher, the whole opposite sideband is beated (DSB reception). The behaviour was the same at all bands and at higher bands the setting was more "touchy" as expected, but still perfectly usable. The impressive thing is that I could do this without the need for multiturn potentiometers, which was nice, since no special parts are required now. Now this is single signal reception at all HF bands, out of this ultra simple detector! How much better can it be?

The use of the RF gain control, has interesting properties. By reducing the gain of the transistor of course, the wanted RF signals are preamplified less. However, you will practically see that without the interfering rectified AM signals anymore, you will be able to receive the wanted ones more crearly, despite of the lower RF gain. QRM and noise, is also reduced by reducing the RF gain and this helps in receiving weaker signals despite of the lower RF gain. Especially in narrowband modes, it seems most of the signals find their way to your ears, as the noise is less and the ear fatigue less.

The receiver front end (two transistors near the selector switch)

Up to this point, I have talked for the receiver as being a reflexed regenerative circuit. With the use of a single stwitch (SW1), the reflexion can be switched off instantly, so the receiver then becomes a pure regenerative circuit without being reflexed. I thought it would be nice to switch instantly between the two circuit configurations to see the differences, so I left the switch there. In the un-reflexed configuration, the output audio volume is less, but there is no significant problem from the B-E junction rectification anymore, even when the RF gain is set to maximum, as any rectified audio is filtered by the low value of the coupling capacitor (4.7pF) and it does not pass to the regenerative detector, or the AF output of the receiver easily. When tested with ceramic resonators, switching the reflexion on or off, causes some instant frequency pulling apart from change in the audio volume. Also, when the reflexion is switched off, changes in the RF gain, cause a minor frequency pulling (not too significant). Fortunatelly, the RF gain, is not something that you would want to change too often. When the reflexion is switched on, there is no frequency pulling at all when altering the RF gain.

There is an interesting article published in this magazine at page 15, which describes the effect of the variable capacitor in the frequency pulling of the crystals in such a circuit. Indeed, my experiments agree with this article, the variable capacitor that was initially used, had the greatest pulling effect when it was set at the lower capacitance values and its minimum capacitance value is important. This makes tuning more difficult at these settings, also because of stray capacitance that has now a greater effect in frequency pulling. If one is to avoid decade capacitors and lots of switches, two things can be done to limit the problem. One way, is to use a variable capacitor with reduction gear and offset shaft position. The reduction gear, allows fine tuning and the offset shaft positionworks to reduce frequency (dial) nonlinearity by positioning the shaft and the plates in a way that produces a linear relationship between shaft angle and resonant frequency, which can be used to compensate for the non-linearity of the frequency dial of the receiver. The other way, is to use a varactor diode which has a capacitance/voltage curve that compensates for the non-linearity, together with a logarithmic potentiometer to control it (to improve even more tuning linearity). Fine tuning of the varactor may be done by a multi-turn trimmer (if you can find a logarithmic one), or an ordinary logarithmic potentiometer combined with a big diameter knob. Just to mention that some of these cheap plastic tuning capacitors out of old radios may present quite low minimum capacitances (under 10pF) and relatively high maximum (150-250pF or so), so they may exhibit great capacitance range and they are not to be excluded without a second thought, as they are not detuned by driving voltage instability like varactors do.

However, apart from improving the tuning linearity, the use of the varactor, has also other important advantages. It avoids stray capacitance caused by hand effects, so no shielding is needed. It also avoids microphonics, it has a small size and it is very cheap. However, a good quality, humidity and dust-free potentiometer must be used for controlling it reliably, but this can be easily found (or replaced if damaged) in comparison to a good variable capacitor. Even cheap potentiometers can do a pretty good job in comparison to a cheap variable capacitor. Remember, minimum capacitance is important for bigger frequency pulling, so a varactor that has a low minimum capacitance and relatively high maximum, is prefferred, but don't go for more than 150pF of max capacitance or so, as greater capacitance will have a small effect on frequency pulling. These expensive 500pF varactors, have only 20pF or so of minimum capacitance and the pulling range above a certain point is small. A problem with varactors, is that sometimes they are considered special parts and they cannot be easily found in a junk box. In such cases, you could use as a varactor, the EB junction of a BJT or a common 1N4001 to 1N4007 series diode, reverse biased of course. Their pulling range is smaller, but they can be easily found. I would avoid using LEDs as varactors, unless they are light-shielded, as they are affected by light variations.

In the receiver, I used the cheap MV209 varactor, together with a 10k logarithmic potentiometer to control it. This combination gives excellent results. The tuning linearity is remarkaply good at all frequencies on crystals and ceramic reconators. The tuning range for the crystals I have tested, is about 2-3KHz or so above 40m, less at 80m and almost none at 160m. The tuning range of a 40m ceramic resonator was about 60KHz and at 80m about 30KHz or so. The more expensive 1SV149 (500pF) varactor, despite the much higher capacitance range, improved the tuning range of the 40m ceramic resonator by only 10KHz or so, but the tuning linearity was suffering at the middle settings of the potentiometer. Thus, I ended up using the MV209 varactor with the 10k logatithmic potentiometer.

Correct polarity of this potentiometer is important. Do not reverse it's connections, as this will lead to a much worse tuning linearity than the varactor's alone. You can find if you have connected it the right way, by placing the receiver fitted with a crystal, near to a commercial ssb receiver, then set the logarithmic potentiometer at middle position and zero beat the commercial receiver to the receiver's local oscillator. Then move the potentiometer shaft all the way to the right and then all the way to the left. The tone that you should hear at the commercial receiver at both ends of the potentiometer, should be roughly of the same frequency if the potentiometer is correctly connected. If not, reverse the connections of the ground and the VCC to it. Another way to find out if you have connected the potentiometer the right way, is to watch the local oscillator signal of the receiver, on a commercial receiver. If the logarithmic potentiometer is correctly connected, the frequency should decrease when you turn the potentiometer clockwise.

Correct polarity of the 10k logarithmic RF gain potentiometer is also important. Connect it, so that the RF gain is varied at equal steps along the wiper movement. You do not want an attenuator that varies most of the RF gain when the wiper is moved just a little bit.

Another view of the receiver front panel

 

The optional audio BPF/LPF filter for CW/SSB

9v

10K

2.2K
220K
BC549C
47nF 10nF
SW2b
SSB/CW

100nF

AFout
SW2a
SSB/CW
AFin

9v 4.7K



6.8K
47nF
or
33nF
10K

6.8K
47nF
or
33nF

10K



6.8K
47nF
or
33nF

10K

47K

47K

47K

BC549C

BC549C

BC549C

560R

47nF
or
33nF

560R

47nF
or
33nF

560R

47nF
or
33nF

The optional audio BPF/LPF for CW/SSB, suitable for direct connection between the front-end AFout and the PC microphone input.


To reject nearby signals on CW, a suitable audio BPF can be added. One could argue that the PC sound card in combination with suitable software could be used as an audio filter instead. However, apart from the need to carry a computer with you, there is another drawback in this, latency. The software needs a lot of processing power to do the job in a short time. In older computers such a proccessing power is not available, so there is some time taken from the time that the audio signal enters the sound card to the time that the processed sound exits it to the headphones. In some cases this can be as high as several seconds. This means that as you tune to a signal, you won't be able to listen to it unless some time has passed. Tuning the receiver to signals is a nightmare if the latency is high. A pure analogue hardware filter has no latency.

The three BJTs that compose the audio filter of the receiver

I have tested quite a lot of CW audio filters, LC types, regenerative types and so on. LC filter types, required quite a few hard to find inductors for the filter to be effective. The regenerative filters I have tried, required quite a few of critical adjustments in order to operate effectively. Moreover, none of the latest proved to be stable enough. Upon signal strength variations, they all oscillated violently. The CW filter that gave the best performance and stability and did not require any adjustments, is the multiple feedback band pass filter presented here. It is composed of three identical cascaded filters.The six CW filter capacitors, define the center frequency of this filter. If 47nF are used, the center frequency will be close to 700Hz. If 33nF are used, the center frequency will be close to 1KHz.

SW2, selects between CW and SSB filters.The SSB filter does not have to be more complex than a single stage and this filter starts to roll-off from about 2KHz and above.

The CW filter (less than 250Hz bandwidth) gives excellent selectivity for its simplicity without any oscillations. To get an idea of it's selectivity, it is suitable for selecting just one out of the two tones of an RTTY signal. Strong CW signals that are very close to the passband can still be heard in the background, but they are greatly attenuated and do not affect the wanted signal reception, even if it's strength is lower than these. This proved to be a desirable feature when scanning the band for signals, as you can find out what is going on nearby without having to retune the frequency of the receiver. In comparison, the narrowband filter of my commercial gear, requires very slow tuning of the frequency, so as not to accidentally dismiss signals when scanning, which has been proven to be inconvenient when scanning large portions of the band.


Optional AF amplifier with automatic limiter

9v
220R

22uF
16v

22uF
16v
5.6K
10K
2.2K
10uF
16v
5.6K
47K 22uF
16v
BC549C 600R
BC549C 510R 600R


Input
BC549C 22nF 200R


100nF


10K


100nF


47K
10K
LOG
BC549C 10K 22K

5.6uF
16v
10K
10uF
16v
1N34A

1N34A 10uF
16v

The optional AF amplifier presented here, has been tested with the receiver with great success. It provides a gain of about 100dB or more, which can be thought at first as too much for this receiver. However, because of the great variations in the input signal level, there are many times where high gain is needed and this amplifier provides it. For example, some of my crystals had very high losses and I had to switch the front end reflex switch to on, adding another audio preamplifier into the AF chain. Ideal signal reception is actually accomplished with combinations of the settings of the reflex switch, the RF gain the regeneration and the audio volume controls. There are some times where it is more prefferable to switch the audio gain to high and limit the RF gain. Other times, the opposite is prefferred, depended on the signal strength and the noise. But that is the beauty of this receiver, the operator has full control over these parameters, even the way detection is accomplished.

The audio amplifier of the receiver. The limiter is not shown in this photo.

I thought that the AF amplifier would be the easiest part of the receiver, but surprizingly this was not as straight forward as it seems. There are various reasons for that. First, the receiver front end audio output volume varies significantly, depended on the strength of the signal, the way the regeneration is set and whether you use crystals or ceramic resonators. Then there were switch "clicks" from the reflex and the filter switches, as well as noise from the regeneration potentiometer, when regeneration exceeds the limits (due to DC on the wiper). Additionally, the high gain amplifier oscillated violently in high input signal levels. If you use a speaker amplifier, you usually do not need to worry about these things.

However when you use headphones, the situation has been found to be completely different. All those noises from the potentiometers and the switches, when amplified in this high gain amplifier, can really split your ears apart, while you are trying to dig out weak signals. The amplifier volume has to be set on high gain when you are trying to receive these faint signals. This causes the amplifier to oscillate, splitting your ears apart once again. Another thing that matters is noise. Whereas on HF, noise from the AF amplifier do not matter much, in this very quiet receiver, noise from the AF amplifier (mostly hiss) is observed in high volume, because noise is amplified as well as the wanted signal. Another point is that, for measuring signal strength effectively, you do not want an AF AGC in the circuit. In other words, you need to cut-off internal amplifier noise and the very loud noises but not the relatively strong signals.

In the AF amplifier shown, the first transistor following the input potentiometer, is used as an automatic limiter. Audio signal is taken from the output of the amplifier and drives the germanium diodes (any Ge diode can be used, because of the low forward voltage drop), which rectify it and charge the 10uF capacitor at the base of the transistor. Depended on it's charge, the transistor "opens" more or less, which affects the AF output of the voltage divider formed by the transistor itself and it's 10k collector resistor. The components values have been chosen, so that only very loud signals at the output of the amplifier (switches clicks, amplifier oscillations) can cause the limiting of the input volume. The attack time is very short, which means that the limiter responds fast to all these noises, protecting your ears. The decay time is about half a second, which allows the operator to know when these noises happen, but does not allow loosing much of the following wanted signal.

The 22nF from the collector of the second transistor to the ground, is the anti-hissing filter. Without it, the amplifier hiss is very noticeable. With it in place, the amplifier is very quiet, even in high volume settings. It also helps in preventing amplifier oscillation. Any value from 10nF to 22nF can be used. Do not go for less than 10nF as the hiss will become noticeable again. Do not go for more than 22nF because you will cut-off much of the wanted audio bandwidth. 22nF is probably too much, but I personally find it less important to cut-off some high audio frequencies, for the shake of preventing ear fatigue after hours of listenning.

The output of this AF amplifier is high impedance (2.2k). This saves lots of power from the battery but it also requires high impedance phones to be used. I had two separate 600R magnetic ear plugs which I connected in series for better audio volume. 600R phones will work too at a bit less volume. Any high impedance phones can be used with this circuit, but if you have the luxury, choose ones that provide maximum volume and cause you the less ear or scull pain when listenning a lot to the receiver. The weight of the phones and the pressure to your head is important for this.

I did not want to cut the cable or remove the connectors of my vintage phones, so I used two female jacks onto the receiver chassis and wired the phones in series within the receiver. Because there are two series connected jacks in the receiver, connection of a computer to the receiver can be accomplished by unplugging one of the two phones and connecting the computer sound card input to it with an audio cable. This allows you to monitor the audio signal from one of the two phones, as well as from the computer, although the computer would be normally more sensitive and would require the receiver audio volume to be set at low levels.


Optional wideband small loop active antenna

9v 9v
10k
LOG
9v
SW2b

100nF
100R
100k
4.7pF NP0
4.7k

100nF


82k
J108


2.2nF
100nF


Wire
ANT
220k MV209 470k
Loop
ANT
Square
frame
BF494 150pF
NP0

2SC
9018

3.3mH

7turns 10x12
cm
BF451

47pF
  

SW1b
2.2nF

82k SW2a



SW1a
560R 100nF


100k
LIN
10k
LOG
 
AFout

 
10k

100nF

3.3mH

The schematic above shows the core of the receiver, with the addition of a wideband active balanced loop antenna. The preamplifier power is switched off when the wire antenna is selected instead, so as to save power drawn from the battery. This design avoids the use of a matching transformer or tuned circuits, which makes it really easy and cheap to build.

The loop antenna is wound on a 10x12cm plastic square frame, with 7 turns of small diameter (standard) insulated wire. I actually used a plastic frame from an old AM radio for the purpose.


The loop antenna mounted at the back of the receiver and folded in.

This frame allows for the antenna to be rotated at the horizontal plane, which could be useful if the receiver must be placed in a fixed position onto a desk. Interference can then be rejected by rotating only the antenna frame, not the whole receiver.

The loop antenna folded out

The active loop antenna performance is very good, considering it's small size and the small parts count. Compared to a 12m sloper wire on the roof, the 10x12cm active loop has almost the same gain and this has been tested from 2MHz and upwards. Not only that, but the loop (being balanced) is less prone to picking up local intefrerence. Apart from that, a great advantage is the ability of the loop to notch out unwanted signals or interference that comes in from a specified direction, by physically rotating the loop. With this antenna attached onto the receiver enclosure, now you have a really portable receiver that you can take with you anywhere, without being depended on large antennas anymore.


Overal construction of the receiver

A side view of the receiver

The receiver is built into a small plastic enclosure. A metal enclosure would probably be better but this would be more difficult to drill and it could potentially interfere with the loop antenna pattern. However, some short of RF grounding and isolation from hand effects is needed and this is provided by the PCB inside the receiver.

The knobs of the controls are chosen to be quite big (but not huge), so as to provide some short of fine tuning without the need for expensive vernier drives. The tuning of the regeneration is the most critical setting and this can be very conveniently set for single signal reception, even at the higher swortwave bands. I have whosen knobs that have scale markings on them, so I do not need to do many front panel markings myself.

On the front panel, there are switches for selecting the antenna and the audio filter type, as well as the topology (regenerative or reflexed regenerative) and of course the external antenna connector and the ZIF socket.

The crystal selector/resonator is a new idea. You can never have enough resonators and the receiver is designed to be broadband (cover the whole HF by just changing resonators). So simply soldering the resonators onto the selector switch is not a good idea. On the other hand, having just a crystal socket on the front panel, means that you would need to carry all the resonators with you all the time, as you go outside with this receiver on hand, which is not convenient. So I have thought of a compromise between the two and I used a ZIF (zero insertion force) IC socket to hold ten resonators. If I need to replace a resonator, or a bunch of resonators, I just unlock the socket lever and replace the resonators. Another advantage of the ZIF socket, is that the pins of the resonators do not wear out as you insert them many times into the socket. I used a 40-pin socket, which would normally hold 20 resonators, but I removed the intermediate socket pins so as to reduce the parasitic capacitance of the socket, but also to make some space for adjacent resonators.

The way you organize your resonators onto the socket is your decision. You may organize them by bands or by listenning preference frequencies etc. If you organize them by bands, you may also use additional DIP sockets (one for each band) and place the resonators onto them. When you want to change band, you unlock the ZIF lever and you replace the whole DIP socket which holds the band resonators. The possibilities are endless, it is really up to you to decide the most convenient way.


The internals of the receiver, all made using discrete components.

The selector switch must be placed as close to the ZIF socket as possible. I used a rechargeable battery for the receiver and I made a holder for it out of two pieces of PCB, soldered at the sites of it to keep it in place. A small spring prevents the battery from dropping out and allows for easy replacement. It is important to use good quality potentiometers on this receiver for smooth setting of the controls. I used Panasonic miniature plastic potentiometers for all the controls except for the audio volume. The audio volume potentiometer has also a switch on it, which is used as the on/off switch for the receiver. I didn't include any on/off LED as there is no need to draw extra prescious current from the battery. The front panel handles have been placed there so as to protect the controls if the receiver accidentally drops with the panel faced down.

There are not many things that can go wrong when building this receiver, if you follow the schematic diagrams correctly. After all, there are no hand-wound inductors and the receiver has been designed with simplicity in mind, so as to be easily reproduccable by most radio amateurs with basic electronics skills. Should any faults arise, do not hesitate to contact me to provide any help I can.


Operation of the receiver

To really appreciate the features of the receiver you have to spend some time operating it. Find some free time, maybe on a rainy Sunday afternoon, away from real life obligations. Sit comfortably in front of your desk with the receiver in front of you and a cup of coffee or your favourite sweet next to it. Don't get hurry, relax and enjoy every moment of the receiver you have built and its operation.

Bring next to you the box where you keep your resonators and plug in your selected resonators to the ZIF socket. Select the internal antenna or plug in an external antenna and your favourite high impedance phones. Switch on the power, set the RF attenuation to minimum, select the resonator of your choice and adjust the volume control for an initial comfortable noise level. Adjust the regeneration until you notice the oscillation hiss. No worry if you set the regeneration too far, as this receiver never oscillates at audio. With each resonator setting, wou will find the optimum oscillation level by noticing the audio volume on the phones (maximum is best).

I usually listen to DSB, by setting the regeneration at maximum that allows for oscillation and good audio volume. That way I do not have to continuously adjust the regeneration. It is only when near-by interference by other stations happens, that I turn down the regeneration to reject the LSB. It is easy to find the point of the regeneration control that this happens, by noticing the change in the audio response. As you pass from oscillation to no oscillation, the audio bandwidth is reduced, like when you turn down the treble on your stereo and a characteristic hiss is heard. You will still hear signal tones clearly (sometimes a bit level-reduced) on the USB at that point, but the LSB signals are gradually dissapear, starting from the higher tones to the lower, as you continue to decrease the regeneration. If you continue to decrease the regeneration, the low tones of the USB start to dissapear as well, similarly to what an audio HPF would do in place. These adjustments are a bit touchy but they can be done comfortably with a stable hand. Play around by setting the regeneration back and forth at that point, to understand the operation of how the LSB is cut-off by the appropriate regeneration setting.

Listenning on a signal, switch back and forth from the external antenna to the active loop and notice the differences in the signal level and the background noise. The RF attenuator will be useful here. Rotate the loop to see the effect of rejecting interference caused by home appliances and also to find the direction of the interference or the useful signals. Switch back and forth the active filter on narrow band signals and notice the difference on the audio responce. Upon switching to the narrow audio filter you may have to do careful fine adjustment of the frequency (more finely performed by the regeneration or even the RF gain control to some point), so as to center the signal tone to the filter peak. Switch back and forth the regenerative/reflexed-regenerative switch and notice the difference in the audio level but also the background noise.

All these controls, sometimes even interacting together, allow you to precisely define the way of the reception of a signal, starting from the RF end, affecting the actual way of detection and ending to the AF, with every stage to have it's own user selectable settings. The combinations are endless and it is only up to your available time to explore them. In any case, this receiver will enjoy you not only because of it's operation and performance, but also because of its collective character. If you happen to be a collector of electronics components you may find it fun to try to dig-out different rare resonator frequencies from the web, shops or flea markets to try on this receiver.


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